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  1. Average Number Of Poker Hands Dealt Per Hour
  2. Average Number Of Blackjack Hands Per Hour
  3. Average Number Of Poker Hands Per Hour
What is a rough estimate of how many hands per hour a relatively quick player can achieve?

Average Number Of Poker Hands Dealt Per Hour

There are two dimensions along which poker players are often evaluated: loose-tight and aggressive-passive. Loose-tight is a measure of how many starting hands you play rather than folding before the Flop. So how many Hands/Hours on average do you guys put into poker every day? For me it's usually around 4 hours/2250 hands per day on average playing at 10nl 6 max doing 9 tables at a time. At the bottom of this page is a comprehensive listing of Texas Hold'em starting hands based on their EV (expected value). Expected value is the average number of big blinds this hand will make or lose. For example: AA from the Small Blind in a $3/$6 game will make, on average, 2.71 times the big blind, or $16.20 per hand (2.71. $6). How many hands do you play per hour on average for a 6-handed or 9-handed NL ring game? About 60 hands per hour online? I doubt it varies much by level, but concerned primarily about range from 2/4 NL to 5/10 NL. You also get to deposit Average Number Of Hands Per Hour Poker and withdraw using a wide range of banking options available to Aussie players and operating in Australian Dollars. Their 100% Average Number Of Hands Per Hour Poker Welcome Bonus up to $200 applies to your first 5 deposits, adding up to a total of $1000.

TwoFeathersATL

What is a rough estimate of how many hands per hour a relatively quick player can achieve?

You might want to specify a game, are you talking VP? Or BJ at a full table of ploppies?
Youuuuuu MIGHT be a 'rascal' if.......(nevermind ;-)...2F
Greasyjohn
600 an hour. 800 if you're really good. But that's just my guess.
Wizardofnothing
600 in bj is amazing
600 in vp is slow
No longer hiring, don’t ask because I won’t hire you either
Bigfshead
I can pound 1000 hph in FPDW. If I'm being really casual, pausing to smoke, look up a baseball score on my cell, gander at hot women, etc, I could go as low as 600 hph.
For DB, or DDb I'm a lot slower because I don't play it much and have to think about some of the holds. Likely around 600 hph because I'm trying to make sure my holds are correct and spur my memory. Ten years ago when I played those more 800 hph was easy.
bobbartop

I can pound 1000 hph in FPDW.


That's really crankin by my standards. I'm probably under 800 consistently. But the original poster should hear the stories of Frank Kneeland. I assume most on this group already know what he can do. And it's true, I've seen him play. It's freakish.
'Emergencies' have always been the pretext on which the safeguards of individual liberty have been eroded.
AxelWolf

That's really crankin by my standards. I'm probably under 800 consistently. But the original poster should hear the stories of Frank Kneeland. I assume most on this group already know what he can do. And it's true, I've seen him play. It's freakish.


Many people could play 2 different machines fast and watch/help a rookie at the same time. Some can even play FPDW and a 10/7 DB at the same time.
People need to understand that playing 2 machines on the older machines was very different, because you had time to look back and fourth when cards were being dealt, you got a rhythm going. I'm not sure if playing 2 fast flash credit machines can be played efficiently. By the time you look at the other machine your fist had is ready to go anyways. I stopped playing 2 machines simultaneously because it is a big red flag that affects all VP AP's negativity. It just brings to much attention and it sometimes pisses off ploppys and locals. I certainly wouldn't want to be playing next someone playing 2 machines simultaneously. If I was going to do it I would reserve playing 2 machines for a super strong promo where the machines were slow. If you're waiting on a hand pay or promo payout and start playing the machine next to you.

Average Number Of Blackjack Hands Per Hour

I have had the opportunity to watch many known serial speedy 2 bangers, the mistakes are often (It's all well and good when you're playing with OPM.) If the play is good enough then it's possibly worth the mistakes.
I have won some bets regarding number of hands people can get out. No one has ever lived up to their claim I felt was unlikely. Usually there's a mistake within 15 min or less.
♪♪Now you swear and kick and beg us That you're not a gamblin' man Then you find you're back in Vegas With a handle in your hand♪♪ Your black cards can make you money So you hide them when you're able In the land of casinos and money You must put them on the table♪♪ You go back Jack do it again roulette wheels turinin' 'round and 'round♪♪ You go back Jack do it again♪♪
RS
I usually play around 800 HPH, but I'm also not trying to play as fast as possible. If there's a reason to play fast (i.e.: time-limited promo), then I'd certainly play faster.
I used to play faster, about 1000 HPH. But that's also when I only knew 9/6 JOB. Learning other games and strategies, including altered RF strategies, makes me not as quick anymore.
Mistakes are gonna happen, you can't not make mistakes while playing at a reasonable speed, IMO. I don't play slower now because of mistakes....I play slower because I'd rather enjoy my time a little more than crank out the hands.
It's like going 90 MPH or 75 MPH.....you're still gonna get to your destination, and you might save some time going faster, but I'd rather hang back and relax a bit, instead of having to focus 100% on driving (i.e.: I can talk with whomever I'm near).
I think if you're playing fewer than 600 HPH, then you probably shouldn't be playing because you don't know the strategy well enough. Should be able to instantly notice pairs, 3 flushes, 4 flushes, 4 straights, etc. But that also comes from experience/play time.
bobbartop

I stopped playing 2 machines simultaneously because it is a big red flag that affects all VP AP's negativity. It just brings to much attention and it sometimes pisses off ploppys and locals. I certainly wouldn't want to be playing next someone playing 2 machines simultaneously.


I saw a guy at Skyline, playing two 10-coin FPDW machines at the same time, so essentially he is playing dollar FPDW. It annoyed me just looking at him and knowing what he was doing. Big red flag, but apparently the casino didn't mind. If I owned the place I would throw him out of there.
There's a regular at Sam's Town who plays two machines. They say he's a very nice guy and always asks other people if they want to sit and play one of the machines. Nice guy or not, it's just not the best of ideas. It doesn't look good.
I mentioned Frank Kneeland earlier, I think he has claimed to play over 2000 hands per hour, accurately. But he's a special person. Like Rain Man, only not that weird. Well, maybe a little weird. He's super smart, and super fast. Like one of those court stenographers. Do you know him or have you ever seen him play? I really liked him on the GWAE Show, he's very 'colorful'. Very very smart person.Hour
'Emergencies' have always been the pretext on which the safeguards of individual liberty have been eroded.
Wizardofnothing

Average Number Of Poker Hands Per Hour

Average number of poker hands per hourBetter not say way- he may be a member and you will be punished 😉👍
No longer hiring, don’t ask because I won’t hire you either

One of the concerns that I frequently hear, especially among small stakes poker players, is when and how to move up to a bigger game. How do you know if you are ready to move up to a bigger poker game or not? The simply answer is to move up when your bankroll is big enough, and move down when your bankroll is too small. But there are more things to consider besides just the size of your bankroll.

Are You Winning?

There’s really only one way to know. You must keep track, down to the dollar (pound, euro, yen, peso, or yuan will do too), of how much you win and how much you lose in each poker session. If you’re playing online then be sure to use poker tracking software – because statistics will not only let you know where your strengths and weakness are in your game, they will assist in your decision of what games to play and when to move up to the next level. By reviewing your playing history you’ll be able to see how you are doing per hour and per big blind or buy-in size.

Win Rates and Return-on-Investment

In cash games your win rate is generally the number of big bets per hour for limit poker and big blinds per 100 hands for no-limit hold’em. Let’s suppose you’ve played 20,000 hands of $25NL ($0.10 / $0.25 blinds) and have made a profit of $2,000. Your win rate would be 6.66 bb/100 – that’s $1.66 per 100 hands ($0.25 * 6.66). Your hourly rate would depend on how many hands you play per hour – playing 500 hands per hour or more across multiple tables is not uncommon for online poker players.

If you’re a tournament or SNG player then you should look at your return-on-investment (ROI). ROI refers to the net profit you’ve earned playing poker. Divide any profit by the gross amount you’ve invested and multiplied by the number of games you’ve played. A ROI of 0% would indicate that you’re breaking even. Let’s suppose you’ve played a 1,000 of your favourite $10 SNG’s, spending $10,000 in the process. Over this period of games you’ve made a profit of $1,500, meaning your ROI would be 15%.

Hopefully you’re win rate or ROI is positive because if you’re not beating your current game then, most of the time, it’s a mistake to move up. There are many benchmarks, formulas, statistics, and graphs available to judge yourself and other players – but it’s better to concentrate on finding the games that maximize your dollars per hour played and grow your bankroll that way.

You should be beating the lower stakes games first. There’s one exception to this that I’d make. Lower stakes poker games can be more heavily raked than the higher stakes games. This is a function of how the rake is calculated. When this is the case, it may make sense to move out of the lowest, and thereby most heavily raked game, as soon as possible, even if you’re not beating it, – just to avoid getting crushed by the rake.

Sample Size

If you just had a winning session of $180 in 4 hours of $50NL, that doesn’t mean that you are beating the game. If you just finished a session of 300 hands of $200NL and doubled your buy-in of $200, that doesn’t make you a winning poker player. Similarly, if you just won a bunch of $20 tournaments in a row, it doesn’t matter. You might have just gotten lucky in each example. Generally speaking, to be really sure that you’re beating the game you’re playing in you need a much larger sample size – 10,000-30,000 hands is considered enough play to gauge how you are really doing in cash games – and 1,000 games for tournament players is a decent sample size.

Your Playing Style

Some poker players are nits or rocks. They win small amounts by risking very little. They have little variance since they play a solid game and take very, very few chances. Other players are plungers. They take huge gambles – even with only very slightly the best of it. If you have a high variance style of poker – say you’re a maniac, then you’d want to start with more. The former players will need less of a bankroll to move up than the latter players because they will show much less variance at the higher level – and will therefore have a much lower risk of running through their bankroll if they run bad for a while.

Bankroll Management

How much money do you have to play poker with? To decide whether you can sustain the variance of a bigger game you need to know what your poker bankroll is and how easily can you replace your playing bankroll? For some, getting $1,000 to play is simple. They have that in stray bills lying around their house – even with no official bankroll. For others, putting together even $50 is difficult. Knowing whether or not you can move up depends on your understanding how easy or difficult it will be to reassemble your playing bankroll if you lose it all at a higher stake. If it is easily gained, then you may play higher than if it is very tough to accumulate.

Calculations vary for determining what bankroll you need for different levels and while that’s not the focus of this lesson it’s worth going over some numbers yet again. So here’s some bankroll management advice:

  • For no-limit and pot-limit games a bankroll of 20-40 the maximum buy-in is recommended. So in a $25NL game, which would have blinds of $0.10/$0.25, the maximum buy-in would be $25. Therefore you should be aiming for a bankroll of $500 – $1,000 for these games.
  • For limit hold’em I’d recommend a bankroll of 300 to 400 big bets – therefore a $1/$2 limit game would require a bankroll in the region of $600 – $800.
  • For tournament players the standard bankroll requirements for large multi-table tournaments is generally around 100 buy-ins. Serious players should double this to 200 buy-ins or more.
Poker

The ability to replace a bankroll increases as you play higher. You must be much more conservative in your estimates of what you need as you move up. Similarly, the idea is to have enough money to protect yourself from losing all of it at a few awful sessions.

Average

Psychology and Comfort Levels

Psychologically a poker player is ready to move up when they feel comfortable to do so. When a player feels uncomfortable, they often play weak poker.

It doesn’t matter whether or not you have enough money, theoretically, in your bankroll to play at a higher stakes if you, psychologically, don’t feel comfortable playing at that level. There are millionaires, even billionaires, who just don’t feel comfortable gambling higher than $3/6 limit or $1/2 no limit. Sure, they could afford stakes higher – much higher in fact. But for whatever reason, they just don’t like to gamble with that much money.

If you don’t feel comfortable making a bet because the stakes are too big for your brain, then it’s unlikely you can play that high – period! However there are always exceptions to every rule, and if you are a tight, timid, winning player, then consider forcing yourself to move up. You can always move back down if you are not successful at the new limit, or if you’re psychologically uncomfortable.

Testing the Waters

There’s a major exception to all of these rules and bankroll requirements. You can test the waters in a higher stake game any time you want. You don’t need a pre-determined amount of money; you don’t even have to be a winning poker player in your current game. You can just buy-in for whatever the minimum is, see how you do, and then move back whenever you want to.

There’s much to recommend taking brief stabs like this at bigger games. First of all, it may help you overcome the psychological difficulty of moving to a larger game in the future, when your bankroll and win rate justify it for the long term. It may even help you in your current game, if you tend to be too tight and worry about the money too much. Playing bigger, even briefly, may be like warming up in the on deck circle with a leaded bat. Your swings seem easier when you pick up the regular bat.

Of course there are some disadvantages as well. If you’re playing poker way over your head, without a large bankroll, you may well be playing at a large disadvantage – either tightening up or just gambling because the stakes are too big for you. Similarly, you may cut your session unreasonable short if you start out with some bad luck in the bigger game.

Conclusion

Ultimately, you can move up when you are financially, psychologically, and skilfully able to do so. All of the above information is meant as a guide but not a cookbook for how to do that.

Know your success rate at each limit and for each type of game. The more a player analyzes and find leaks in one’s game, the faster a player can move up to the next limit. This is crucial in helping you to establish what kind of bankroll you might need. But do not necessarily change your game. It could be just the gremlins of fluctuation.

Keep statistics of your poker sessions, and you’ll then have a better idea of what size bankroll you’ll need in order to continue playing the games you already play, and whether you can afford to move up to bigger limits, and bigger buy-ins. Keeping a record of your play will allow you to make faster and better decisions and thus help advance your poker bankroll.

The fastest way to move up is to study a little, play a lot of poker, study a little, and play even more. What could be more fun than playing poker? At each level make sure to check your win rate or ROI – and if necessary, don’t be too proud to move down in limits. This game takes even the best of poker players for big swings. Therefore, a big reserve is good for your psyche whether losing or winning.

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By Ashley Adams

Ashley Adams lives in Boston, Massachusetts and has been playing poker for decades. He is the author of two poker books and his specialty is 7-card stud and no-limit hold'em.

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